Fire Within Size:84×119cm — 33.1×46.8in — A0 The patterns are never the

The patterns are never the same twice

the light turning golden and then deep

surfers and ocean both

What happened over the next hour was one of those sessions that reminds you why you do this — wave after wave

Fire Within Size:84×119cm — 33.1×46.8in — A0 The patterns are never theThis image came from a morning where the conditions were doing something I hadn't seen before the light hitting the water in a way that made everything glow from within. Fire Within is about that internal energy, the thing that keeps you getting up before sunrise and getting back in the water when most people would stay home. It's not something you can fake and it's not something you can manufacture. Either you have it or you don't. About this print